In this post, I will share with you one of the patterns we are perfecting. It is a button-up shirt with stand collar, cuffed sleeve, asymmetrical hem and patch pocket. There are a few variations to this pattern. The cropped version is our first to sample. Please let us know in the comments what you think.
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Caitlyn and I took great effort in lining up the plaid lines. For the most part, we where able to achieve alignment and balance around the garment. Read below to find out how we worked around the more challenging pattern pieces such as the collar, button-hole placket and sleeves. You will also learn that I procrastinate when having to line up challenging prints...
To ensure the plaid of the pocket lined up with the bodice, we pinned each line in the plaid intersecting with the bodice line. We took it one step further by hand-wheeling over the pin, instead of taking the pin out while stitching.
In-seam Button Holes
Below is an inside shot of a false french seam finish to the armhole. This is very much a time consuming type of finish. But I promise you, this seam will outlive you. Here is a blog tutorial on how to sew a False French Seam.
What I Learned
For the collar, we decided to just line up the center back line and let the front left and right of the collar just be balanced in the plaid, to provide a balanced look in that pattern piece alone.
If you want sleeves to look appropriate with the bodice, just ensure both sleeves are exactly the same in plaid offering. It will make a balanced over-all look to the garment.
The most time consuming alignment was the front button-hole placket. My brain got all discombobulated, so I literally left cutting out this particular pattern piece to last, and procrastinated while doing it. When lining up prints, I like to not have any seam allowance present on the pattern piece. This lets you visualize one pattern piece to the next without any distraction. If the particular edge you are aligning is straight, you can just fold back the seam allowance.
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios.
Editorial photos by Miguel Campos