Sewing Blog.

We recently visited Atex Designer Fabrics in Gastown. They are our go-to for plaids, wools and all things warm and fuzzy. It also helps that the owner Dave is a super chill dude. This is one of many plaid fabrics we picked up. Lets just say we are exploring a very 1970's and/or 1990's vibe right now. Read on about our latest design- Plaid Button-Up Skirt.

Drafted from skirt blocks, we kept the silhouette simple but amped-up the quality of the design elements. We kept some waist darts to maintain shaping, got rid of the traditional CB seam and extended the CF edge to create a front opening.

Anytime we design with wool, we think its best to line the garment fully. So in turn, facings are an important element. Although they cannot be seen, facings are all around in this skirt. Separate pattern pieces were drafted for the front and back waist facings because of the  curved waist and the darts. Along the center front (CF) button extension, we drafted a built in folded facing. Same on the hem. The waist facings and the CF facings were interfaced as well to provide stability to these areas. 

Front openings on garments of all sorts are so in right now! It makes a simple plaid skirt not so simple anymore. What do you think of this type of opening? Do you prefer back, side or front openings on a skirt?

You may have noticed we are in a fabric covered button phase right now. Well get ready for more because we bought wholesale a large pack of buttons to fabric cover. This is the perfect choice when you just cannot find the perfect button to match your fabric.

There is no way we are going to design a plaid skirt and NOT have the plaid match perfectly around the body.  

Tips for matching plaid fabric.

• If it is your first time matching plaid, pick a fabric where the plaid repeat is smaller and closer in repetition.
• Plaid matching is best for designs that are more linear or straight in nature. For example, you cannot achieve a perfect plaid match along flared or very curved seams.
• When lining up vertical seams like a CB seam, avoid placing the most solid stripe right on the CB. Use the negative space in between to achieve a more flattering overall look. 
• If your design involves, exterior pieces like pockets, flaps, collars, cuffs etc. Cut those pattern pieces after you have cut out your main pieces. For example, if you are creating a patch pocket on the front of a blazer. Press back the top line of the patch pocket placement on the front blazer. Hover this piece onto uncut fabric until you find the exact plaid match. Weigh front blazer down on fabric. Grab patch pocket paper pattern piece and line up top to the folded edge. Now you have a match!

We are loving this subtle plaid print! So much that we are making a matching tailored blazer. Stay tuned for that one in the new year.

Matching printed fabric is challenging! We would love to have you in studio for a lesson on how to match prints on your next design. Contact us to book lessons!
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Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios.

This design had us feeling extra nostalgic, so we named it— Tailored Tear-Away Jumpsuit. Although the buttons don’t literally “tear-away”, this jumpsuit still gave us major Spice Girls vibes. I guess you could say we’re paying homage to our favorite 90’s fashion trend.

From secretly lined silk insides to fabric covered buttons, we will provide some insight on our favorite design elements in this jumpsuit.

Our favorite type of buttons are fabric-covered buttons! There are 32 buttons in total (15 along each side seam and 1 on each shoulder strap). We wanted to play around with non traditional openings and alternative closures (ex. no zipper), so fabric-covered buttons only made sense!

Fabric-covered buttons can add a special touch to any design and are also a great way to use up fabric scraps! You can find a button-covering kit at most fabric and craft stores.

A faux front cross-over is so in right now! This type of opening is very flattering and allows you to layer with a long sleeve top or blouse underneath. We are thinking about using the surplice top part of this pattern and replacing the pant part with a skirt. What do you think?

No garment is complete without pockets. These slash pockets are fully lined with the same silk charmeuse lining the inside of the bodice and pants.

Fun Fact: This version of the jumpsuit is in fact a wearable fit sample! That's right...version 2.0 coming soon. What color would you like to see us make this out of?

Learning how to pattern draft for your body is empowering and fun! If you want to learn how to pattern draft a jumpsuit, contact us to book lessons.

Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios