How to Sew a Faux French Seam

Welcome to part 3 of how to sew a French Seam. This tutorial will show you how to sew a Faux French Seam, also known as a False French Seam. Click HERE if you would like to start with the Regular French Seam and HERE for the Narrow French Seam. 

Why a Faux French Seam? The end product looks the same as a Regular French Seam, but the process is completely different and involves both machine and hand sewing. You would use this technique when working with extremely delicate fabrics like fine lace, which have no place near a machine.

Step 1

Right sides of the fabric facing either hand sew or machine sew at 1/2" seam allowance. I have used black thread so you can see it in photos. Ideally you should be using matching thread.

1/2" total seam allowance as been allocated for this example. Regular seam allowance ranges from 3/8-5/8".

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Step 2

Separately, press seam allowances in half, folding raw edge in. Line up raw edge beside sewn line in Step 1. See video below for detailed instructions.

Step 3

Slip Stitch closed your seam allowance on the fold.  See video below for detailed instructions.

Step 4

Pressing from the right side of your garment, press all seam allowances to one side.

Pressing from the right side will allow the iron to naturally open your seam flat. Check out my Pressing Tips here.

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Happy Sewing!
Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios