Latest Design: Denim Jacket Series

What do you call a denim expert? A jeanius! Autumn is finally here, so it’s time to button up on our latest denim jacket series. The pattern was created while teaching two of our clients how to reverse pattern draft their favorite denim jackets.

​Project Specs

• Made up of over twelve pattern pieces
• White Denim Twill from Fabricana in Richmond
• Blue denim from Edwin Denim in Nippori Textile Town in Tokyo, Japan

• ​Four sewing machines involved- three industrial machines & one domestic sewing machine​​
• Took a total of 6 hours to sew each jacket

​Design Elements

Color Variations

We made two color variations of this jacket- White and Blue.

Metal Snap Buttons

The most challenging part of constructing this jacket was sewing the buttonholes! ​

Here is an easy guide to help you sew stubborn buttonholes:

• If you can sew the buttonhole prior to stitching pattern pieces together, it will allow fabric to move freely under the presser foot. The buttonhole foot is sensitive to any excess fabric that may touch the sensors.

• If the machine keeps getting jammed or not sewing the buttonhole correctly, rotate garment 180 degrees and try again. Perhaps thickness of fabric is under the presser foot throwing off the sensors.

• Trim away excess bulk in seam allowance to ensure all fabric under the presser foot and surrounding area is as even and flat as possible.

​When cutting open a machine sewn buttonhole, start by making a small hole with a rotary blade in the middle of the buttonhole. Now swap to scissors. Use scissors for cutting out from the middle to the edge with the tip of the blade. This will assist in accuracy. Avoid rolling open the buttonhole with a rotary blade and avoid a seam ripper. Take your time!

Top Stitching

Sewing Tip- When using top stitching thread (thicker thread), use regular size thread in the bobbin if you are having trouble with tension issues. Keep the upper thread thick though.

Box Pleat Patch Pocket with Flap

One of the most traditional pockets found on a denim jacket- a box pleat pocket with a flap. Did you know if is was 3D, it would be called a safari pocket?!

Cropped Hem

Stop, Crop, and Roll! Boxy design meant a cropped length would work perfectly. What length do you prefer in a denim jacket?

Denim Sewing Hacks

When working with really thick denim, change your needle to a larger size (16-20) and try to hand wheel over thicker areas to avoid breaking your needles. You are most likely to break a needle going at faster speeds.

If you are having trouble with thread tension due to fabric thickness variations, swap to a walking foot. It will walk over your layers with ease.

Final Design

This design turned out to be a real beauty. She must have nice jeans...

Bonus

We are thinking about painting the white jacket. What do you think? Keep it clean or paint it up??!!

​Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios