The first time I ever saw a French seam was at a young age. Inside a pillow case my grandmother sewed, I inspected with awe at how the raw edges seemed to be magically hidden away. It was not until many years later that I realized it was a French seam I was so fascinated with back then.
Here is a video tutorial on how to sew a regular French seam. French seams work well with straight to slightly curved seams on fabric that is light- to medium-weight. You'll see it most often used in shirts and blouses.
To begin, place wrong sides of fabric facing each other, and sew at 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Trim away half of the current seam allowance width. This step will ensure that raw edges are peeking out the right side of the seam.
Time to press! This is a two part pressing system. First, press all seam allowances one way to create a flat seam. Second, press seam with right sides of fabric facing each other. Balance seams so that it looks like a book spine.
With right sides of the fabric facing each other, secure your book spine by sewing the second stitch line at 1/4 inch seam allowance.
You can ensure the right seam allowance by using the formula below:
FIRST SEW LINE (1/4" SA) + SECOND SEW LINE (1/4" SA)=
TOTAL GARMENT SEAM ALLOWANCE OF 1/2"
Press seam allowance flat going one way. In a garment, press seam allowance towards the back, or away from the centre front/centre back.
Created and written by Sheila Wong
Filmed and edited by Samantha Quon
Sheila Wong Studio Team