This tutorial is inspired by my silk chiffon Propaganda top recently photographed by Desmond Cheng below. I was on a double date night with my fiancée. PS- I won at bowling that night!
There is a bit of kimono inspiration mixed with a cocoon silhouette. This tutorial is a bit more detailed oriented then normal but its well worth it. You will learn how to finish off silk in a clean way with a French seam. If you have a serger that can do a rolled hem, you can sew the entire top this way. If not, then follow my steps below to completing each seam.
Draft Front and Back patterns based on a fitted t-shirt. Lay your t-shirt flat on pattern drafting paper (If you don’t have use newspaper or packing paper).
Trace out the following Front and Back patterns similar to above. Add ½” seam allowance around each traced out pattern piece. You do not need to add seam allowance to the center back seam as it will be cut on fold.
Pin and cut out fabric pieces. You should have 1 Back piece (cut on fold at center back) and 2 Front pieces (left and right).
Sew side seams and shoulder seams with a French Seam.
Steps to sew a French Seam:
1. Bad sides facing each other sew at ¼ seam allowance.
2. Press seam allowance to one side. Then good sides facing each other press sewn seam flat so it’s like a book.
3. Sew from folded seam in at 3/8 seam allowance. This will sandwich the raw edge thus creating a clean French Seam.
Your French Seam should look like below. Here is an inside and outside view for you.
Press front neck seam by folding in twice at ¼ inch each.
Edge stitch closed.
Hem bottom of shirt and sleeve the same way as step 4.
Press all seams.
Here is my completed top! Let me know what you think of this tutorial. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios