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Latest Design: Two Toned Waistcoat

2/24/2014

8 Comments

 
Here is my version of a top Winter 2014 trend- a long waistcoat. A waistcoat can be defined as a sleeveless garment covering the top half of a body with a center front opening. My take on this Winter 2014 trend is futuristic and void of any unnecessary bits like closures, top-stitching, darts, etc.

PS- Waistcoat is just a formal way of referring to a vest. 
Two Toned Waistcoat

Project Specs

  • 1.7 M of wool blend fabric
  • 0.4 M of cotton for lining and binding
  • 1 spool of dark  grey thread
  • Drafted 7 pattern pieces
  • 11 hours over 3 weeks
  • Machine sewn on a Juki DDL 8300

Fabric

I fell madly in love with this fabric the moment I touched it! It is so extremely soft and warm to the touch. I initially thought of a cropped vest, but one year later it evolved to a long waistcoat. I found this fabric at Fabricana in Richmond in the Interior Delights section which is upstairs. Interior Delights is actually a separate company from Fabricana. Did you know that? Don't be afraid to explore home décor fabrics. Some of my favorite fabric finds are from the home décor section.
Two Toned Waistcoat
Two Toned Waistcoat
I purchased the light grey and dark grey color-ways. I initially used a small portion of the dark grey on a dress for the bodice. I had just enough left-over to create this waistcoat.
Two Toned Waistcoat

Draping/ Pattern Drafting

For those of you who know me, I am not a fan of illustration. I tend to already have the design in my mind and go straight into draping what I in vision. I wanted to keep this garment as fitted, sleek and clean as possible. Meaning clean lines, no darts and no top stitching. I was able to remove the front dart by creating a style line coming from neckline to side seam. I mirrored the same idea on the back, to give the waistcoat a balanced look.
Two Toned Waistcoat Draping Pattern Drafting
Two Toned Waistcoat Pattern Drafting

Construction Details

Being able to bring together two different colors in identical fabrics in one garment is what I think really adds to the appeal of this waistcoat. It gives it that futuristic vibe that a lot of my designs already posses. 
Two Toned Waistcoat
Two Toned Waistcoat
Sewing the front dark grey piece to the front light grey piece along the style line was a tad tricky. I had to ensure I found the exact pivot point so the front would lay smooth over the bust. I just chalked out the pivot area on the wrong side of the garment prior to sewing.

It was important that the side seams lined up perfectly too. It would be obvious with the contrasting fabric if the style lines did not match up. Pinning this point was essential prior to sewing the side seam.
Two Toned Waistcoat
Two Toned Waistcoat

Inverted Box Pleat

An inverted box pleat was not in my original design, but I felt the garment needed more dark grey too add to the overall interest. A 2" panel was sewn into the center back seam using a French seam finish. Learn How to Sew a French Seam HERE. I wanted the pleat to be a subtle addition to the back, so I sewed down approximately 8 inches from neckline down the back.
Two Toned Waistcoat
Two Toned Waistcoat

Bound Side Seam Finish

I do not believe in leaving raw edges exposed in a garment. I like to take the time to neaten any exposed edges. I applied hand made binding strips to the side seams to create a bound seam finish.  Learn How to Sew Bound Seam Finish HERE.
Vancouver Sewing Classes
Bound Seam Finish

Lining

I particularly enjoy garments that are not lined, but only if the seams are neatly finished. I needed to either add a facing to neckline, armhole and center front or just line the garment entirely. I opted for lining the bodice area only. That way I would not add to the weight of complete garment, especially going into spring weather. 
Two Toned Waistcoat
Vancouver Sewing Classes
The hem of the lining was slip-stitched closed and the neckline was edge-stitched to secure lining to the interior of the garment. Hidden to the eye, I applied tack-stitches to the sides seams and center back at pleat to hold the lining in place.

Mitered Corner

Keeping with the clean line aesthetic I wanted for this design, I finished the center front corners at the hem with a mitered corner. Learn How to Sew a Mitered Corner HERE.
Vancouver Sewing Classes
Vancouver Sewing Classes

Hand Sewing

Top-stitching was not allowed for this garment. To complete the garment, blind slip-stitching was sewn along the center front opening and hem.
Vancouver Sewing Classes

Completed Waistcoat

This is how I styled my waistcoat. Kept it simple with a Club Monaco blush pink tank, Rachel Roy denim and white Cole Haan leather shoes.
Two Toned Waistcoat Sheila Wong Studios
Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios
8 Comments
Annette Adam
4/11/2014 12:34:36 am

Very exquisite look, refined and very dressy for work environment in these shade of grey. I imagine in floral color it would look great on a young girl with a perfect figure

Reply
Sheila Wong
10/1/2014 05:13:35 am

Thanks Annette! It is nice that a simple color or fabric change can really change the entire feel of an item.

Reply
Bahesty link
9/26/2014 02:41:38 am

A good blog always comes-up with new and exciting information and while reading I have feel that this blog is really have all those quality that qualify a blog to be a good one. I learn a lot from it. I wanna appreciate you for this great effort

Reply
Sheila Wong
10/1/2014 05:12:36 am

Thank you for the kind words and taking the time to read my blog :)

Reply
kanisha
4/16/2015 01:24:24 am

How did you create your pattern?

Reply
Sheila Wong link
4/22/2015 07:37:57 am

Hi Kanisha,

I draped this design on a dressform. It allowed me to get rid of the darts into the style lines. I then traced out the fabric pieces onto paper and cleaned up the joining seams. The inverted box pleats where added with pattern drafting not draping. Hope that helps!

Thanks for reading my blog.
Sheila

Reply
ayanastudios link
7/28/2020 02:56:09 am

Informative Fashion Blog

Reply
outlookindiatoto link
9/5/2024 03:24:36 am

me eelistame austada mitmeid teisi veebi veebisaite veebis, isegi kui nad ei ole meiega seotud, linkides neile. Allpool on mõned veebilehed, mida tasub tõesti kontrollida

Reply



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