Latest Project: Laser Cut Top

7/8/2016

Summer is here, but y'all know how much I love designing with black. At least this design is sleeveless and has laser cut holes to keep me cool. Caitlyn (our studio assistant) did all the work on this one with my input along the way.

Project Specs

0.8M of laser cut faux leather
0.8M of 100% cotton
1 set of small metal snaps
1 spool of black thread

4 drafted pieces
15 hours over the span of 2 months
Machine sewn on a Juki DDL 8300 with hand sewn finishes

Inspiration

Caitlyn walked in for her shift one day and I presented her with some fabric swatches (shown below) and a quick two minute sketch of a semi-flared sleeveless top. There is no photo of the sketch, because I am way to embarrassed to show you my horrid sketching skills...sorry, deal with it.

Pattern Drafting

This pattern is extremely basic. It was derived from a size front and back bodice blocks. The armholes have been dropped slightly to allow for movement and the waist seams have been released into a flared garment. A dart at the shoulder remains to give shape to the upper part of the top. The lining is almost identical with the exception of the hem.

Construction Details

At first glance, this garment does not seem to complicated but if you know me the finishes are very much detailed. The following displays important design elements integrated into this top.

Armhole/Neckline

To achieve a clean look for this design, the lining and exterior fabric are sewn together at the armhole, neckline and centre back opening. The seam allowance has been trimmed down to 1/8" to avoid puckering and the lining has been edge stitched to ensure lining stays inside the garment and does not creep out.

Centre Back Placket

Because of the high neckline, there needs to be an opening somewhere to get your head through. In this design, an opening, otherwise known as a placket, is inserted at the centre back of the garment. A small snap closure is hand sewn at the top.

Darts

In hindsight we should have just removed the shoulder darts because sewing darts with tiny cut outs in the fabric is not the easiest. But at least it creates some shape around the shoulder.

Lining

We could have kept this design un-lined and left all openings as raw edges, but that would have been way too easy. We used 100% black cotton to line this top. The lining hem sits approximately 1 1/4" up from the exterior hem.

Seam Finishes

With the laser cut faux leather we kept the seam allowance simple - no finish at all. With the lining the side seams were finished with a French seam, and the centre back seam was finished with a clean seam with slip stitch down finish.

Hem

With a steady hand Caitlyn used a rotary blade to cut the hem. This is one of the rare occasions that a hem is left raw in our studio. Tulle skirts is the only other occasion.

Finished Garment

How bad ass does this finished garment look on dress form Alice?! I might have to join a biker crew with this one. JK! JK! I will stick with designing for now.