Latest Project: Lace Silk Top

10/1/2014

Fabric, thread, wax, a hand sewing needle, and my hands. These are items used to create my latest design. No machines used here! Get an insider look at the design elements and finishes on this fully hand sewn top. And no I did not sew by candle light on this one.

Project Stats

.30 M rose silk charmeuse
.10 M blush pink lace
1 spool of matching thread

Lost count of hours, completed over the span of 2 months
Fully hand sewn

Fabric

I plucked the silk charmeuse and leftover lace right out of my fabric bins. This whole process started off as a lace demo for clients then I decided why not make it into a wearable top.

Construction Details

As you already know from the introduction, this top is fully hand sewn- no machines involved. A basic no dart bodice front and back block where used to create the pattern pieces. Simplicity was key as all the attention was on the hand sewn details. Below I go through each integral design element that makes up this lace silk top.

Attaching Lace to Silk

As I am writing this, I realize I need to do a tutorial on how to attached lace onto silk (or another form of fabric) flawlessly. This was an extremely time consuming part as tiny 1/16" stitches where sewn along a pathway in the lace. Peek below at the interior view. It gives you an idea of how many stitches are required to hold the lace in place. After sewn, any excess fabric from lace and silk are trimmed away ever so carefully.

Exterior view

Inside view

Thread Bars & Buttons

Sewing on the thread bars and buttons was the last step. First the buttons where placed evenly along the center back seam. The buttons reach far enough down the center back to cover my bra line.

Once the buttons where secure, it was time to sew thread bars (threaded button loops). It is difficult to get a super macro shot of a thread bar, but you hand sew a ton of button hole stitches around a carefully placed loop. I lost count of how many button hole stitches it took to sew just one. My guess is around 60 per loop.

Bound Armholes

Bias (cut on 45 degree to grain) strips where pressed to a narrow 1/4" width bound tape. Then sewn onto armholes in a two step process. 1- Right sides facing sewn along a pressed line. 2- Wrap around armhole raw edge and slip stitch in place.

Lace Neckline

I was able to cut away the mesh part of lace just above the elastic cording to create a cut-out look following a path in the floral motif. How I love lace that has a solid pathway, so easy to finish!

Narrow French Seams

When I think silk charmeuse, I think of narrow french seams. Side seams and shoulder seams where given a narrow french seam.

Hem

For the remaining exposed raw edges, I decided a simple fold twice in at 1/4" and slip stitch in place was the best finish for silk. I think a hand rolled hem would have been lovely too.

Completed Top

Something really surprised me about this top when I was ready to try it on. You can wear it TWO ways! All of the sudden the endless hours spent on this top melted away.

PS- My bust is smaller then the dress form, so the buttons 'button up', unlike the photo above.

Written & created by Sheila Wong.
Happy Sewing!

3 Comments

Annette Adam

10/6/2014 04:34:58 am

I think this is one of the idea that will set you aside from other designer and sewer. Lace work always adds a nice touch.
Hand sewed items, very few people attempt them but they are a beauty when finished.
This particular work was very well put together from start to finish.
Good way to get attention from your reader- No I did not sew under candlelight.

great hand sewing.

I attempted a ''pointe fol ''( pieces put together clockwise and sewed by hand with a hidden stich) in quilting a few years ago, and was amazed how a piece of work put together by hand come as good has machine sewed if done with one eight of and inch hidden stitch.
GOOD WORK...

Sheila Wong link

1/26/2015 07:09:38 am

Thank you for the kind comments! Lace work is definitely time intensive but so worth it in the end.

Good luck with you hand sewing :)
Sheila

essaypro.com link

1/27/2019 01:05:07 pm

Hello, Sheila! Before anything else, I want to thank you for opening the doors of fashion world to us. I am not really looking into details that much, but I guess looking into it is a good thing. This Lace Silk Top looks really classy. At the same time, we all know how comfortable it is to wear a silk dress, especially during bedtime because it also has the power to make us feel relaxed. If we want a laid-back outfit wherein we don't need to put up too much, resorting to silk-made outfits is a good choice.

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