Latest Project: Floral Sleeveless Top

7/26/2016

It's still summer right? Here is a simple design with (as per usual) time-intensive details that you wouldn't notice on the surface. This design was extracted from the basic front and back bodice blocks. The neckline and armholes were dropped and the darts where shifted into a flared hem. Read on to get a closer look into the details applied.

Project Specs

0.6M of a Floral cotton gauze material
1 spool of thread in Taupe

7 hours over the span of 9 months
Machine sewn on a Juki DDL 8300 with hand sewn finishes

Fabric

When travelling, I try to make it a point to visit a fabric store just to see what each city offers. I picked up this fabric in Aug 2015 in Calgary, Alberta (my hometown). It was purchased from a Fabricland that I used to frequent in my teens. I am not normally attracted to a floral print, but there is something about a subtle floral print with muted colours that I could not resist.

Construction Details

Only a few construction elements were involved but each was time-intensive. From pressing bias strips of fabric into binding, to hundreds of slip stitches this top came together with ease. The techniques themselves were not challenging but I think the hardest thing about this top was the time it took to finish each step.

French Seams

French seams are perfect on light to medium weight fabric, and especially on a straight seam. The shoulder and side seams on this top have a French seams. To learn how to sew a French seam click HERE.

Hand Pressed Binding

Hand pressed binding cut on bias was first machine sewn on to the armholes and neckline opening. To close up the binding a slip stitch finish was applied. This really creates a clean and polished look with no top stitching. I find a bound finish is the best for openings in a garment that is sleeveless. Other ways to finish openings include creating a facing.

Demi Couture Finishing

Demi-couture means half couture. Hand stitching was applied around the neckline, armhole and hem. The following two photos show a closer look at the bound necklines and armholes.

Hand Sewn Hem

This hem was folded in twice at 3/8" seam allowance then slip stitched closed to match the clean finish of the neckline and armhole. I feel like slip stitch is a constant stitch in each of the studio designs.