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Sewing Blog.

Latest Project: Blue Split-Back Top

7/2/2014

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Feeling inspired by my last split-back top design and the heat, it was only natural this top would be created. I removed the reversible element, but that meant adding several other techniques that involve hand sewing. 
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Hopefully you will see me sporting this design soon. This particular top is going to my friend Daphne for her birthday. Enjoy!

Project Stats

  • 0.8 M of Cotton/Polyester blend fabric
  • 1 Spool of thread
  • 5 Hours over the span of 8 days
  • Sewn on a Juki DDL 8300 and with my hands

Fabric

This is the exact same fabric I used for the reversible split-back top, but different color. Picked up from Gala Fabrics on South Granville for only $2/meter. It is a cotton/polyester blend.
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Construction Details

There are three major techniques used on this top. Bound hem, narrow French seams and hand sewn snaps. I will go through where they where applied in the garment and the challenges I encountered.

Bound Hem

A bound hem finish was applied to all openings on this top. I used the same pattern that was applied to the initial reversible design which only allotted for a 1/4" seam allowance around all openings. I did not want to adjust the pattern, so applying a bound seam was the easiest solution. 

Bias strips where cut out, pressed, machine sewn then slip stitched finished. The slip-stitching took up majority of the sewing time but well worth the clean look. 

Looking back, I wish that I pressed the sew line flat after binding was initially sewn on. I think this would decrease the amount of puckering along the sleeve. 
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Narrow French Seams

Narrow French seams fully enclose any raw edges for a clean seam inside and out. Learn how to sew a Narrow French seam HERE. This type of seam was applied to the side seams and shoulder seams. 
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Hand Sewn Snap Closure

I adore snaps, small or big, metal or fabric covered, snaps are for me. Something just satisfies me to hand sew these beauties onto garments. For this top I installed two sets of snaps at the back neckline. They appear hidden when snapped up to give a clean look.

One of my biggest tips when hand sewing snaps- keep the amount of stitches you apply per hole the same. Creates a uniformed look.
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Happy Sewing!
Written & created by Sheila Wong
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