Color is not my go-to but for some reason the color and faces on this print were just too stunning to walk away from. In this case, the fabric was the main inspiration! The energy I felt from this fabric was that we are all unique in our on way and that we should embrace our own uniqueness and that of others.
Drafting this design was not very complex as I already drafted a basic tailored dress shirt in the past. I traced out a copy of that pattern and made the following adjustments to the new pattern.
- Lengthen hem at the center front by 4" and extending down to 6" by the center back. This made for the asymmetrical hem.
- Expand center back pleat to be 3" in width to allow for more movement at the back.
- For even more movement at the back, I cut up from the hem to the top of the back panel in two areas to create additional flare at the hem. Creating a cape-like appearance when the wind hits you just so.
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Fabric
In late Feb, I visited Fabricana in Coquitlam for the first time. Normally I frequent their Richmond location, but that location has been closed since Oct 2019 for renovations. I do prefer the set up of the Richmond location but it was nice to explore a new store to me. During this fabric shopping trip, my focus was on tailored shirt fabrics. I picked up 3 in total, so be prepared to see more tailoring techniques over the next month or so.
Project Specs
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Design Elements
Traditional tailoring techniques are all over this design. Below, I walk you through some of the stand out elements and share a few essential button hole tips I discovered that have changed my opinion on how easy sewing a tailored shirt is.
The only non traditional elements are the light weight fabric, extra flare in the back and the asymmetrical hem.
The only non traditional elements are the light weight fabric, extra flare in the back and the asymmetrical hem.
Top-Stitching and Seam Finishes
After you take in the beauty of the fabric, you will notice the top stitching flowing throughout the entire shirt. Top-stitching is important in a tailored shirt as it holds each area stable and adds strength to over-worked areas such as the armhole, shoulders and back yoke.
In addition to the top stitching, french seams and flat felled seams where applied to all exposed seams in the garment.
In addition to the top stitching, french seams and flat felled seams where applied to all exposed seams in the garment.
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Tower Placket and Cuffs
The term "placket" refers to any opening in a garment that opens up for the wearer to easily get in and out of in more fitted areas. Do not confuse it with the hem opening of a garment though. Typically, the placket has a closure of some sort— button, snap, thread/fabric loop, etc. A "tower placket" is recognizable for the tower like point at the top and is one of the most traditional tailoring elements found in a shirt. If you have ever constructed one, you will know that you have to be extremely accurate in the cutting, marking and pressing of the tower. If you are off by an 1/8" it will make for a leaning tower.
CB Box Pleat w/Flare
I have made several tailored shirts, so I decided to inject some femininity through a few changes. Added flare to the back panel, and created a larger center back box pleat. No flare was added to the front. I think we could all use a built in cape once in a while!
Lengthening the hem and creating an asymmetrical hem makes for more of a shirt dress or tunic silhouette as well.
Lengthening the hem and creating an asymmetrical hem makes for more of a shirt dress or tunic silhouette as well.
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Sewing Tip: Buttonholes
Machine sewn buttonholes can be unpredictable for a number of reasons— fabric thickness inconsistency under the foot, too thick of fabric, and weight of certain areas in the garment pulling it from the sewing foot areas. BUT, it is possible! I discovered recently that if you follow these sequence of steps, your life will be easier!
- Sew the buttonholes along the center front opening prior to the collar stand being stitched to the neckline.
- Sew the buttonhole at the collar stand prior to it being stitched to the neckline.
- Sew the buttonholes along the cuff prior to it being stitched to the bottom of sleeve.
Final Design
This design was a real pleasure to stitch up. Our world got turned upside down very quickly with the spread of COVID-19. Sewing reminded me that we all need our therapy to help process our feelings. This design provided me with time to slow down and enjoy each stitch. May we all find joy in the little moments each day, as they do exist if we open our eyes— kinda like the faces in this design.
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If you would like to learn how to draft and construct a tailored shirt, contact us to book lessons.
Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios.
Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios.
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