SHEILA WONG FASHION DESIGN STUDIO LTD
  • Home
  • Book Sewing Lessons
  • Set Course Offerings
  • Rates
  • Blog
  • Contact

Latest Design: Ombre Slip Top

12/1/2020

0 Comments

 
In early 2018, a simple slip silhouette dress pattern was drafted to allow me to demonstrate couture sewing techniques in my hand sewing intensive course at Maiwa School of Textiles. Since then, I have made four variations of the dress silhouette showcasing different fabrics, seam finishes, and surface manipulations. Having a simple silhouette to showcase a variety of machine and hand sewing techniques is ideal while teaching our clients.
Ivory Linen Slip Dress
Velvet Slip Dress
Indigo Slip Dress
Purple Color Block Silk Slip Dress
Earlier this year, we cropped the dress pattern to become an easy-to-wear slip top. In doing so, this allowed me to continue to demonstrate with clients but with less fabric waste. Pictured below, you can see the variety of slip tops we have made to date, with the most recent changing up the design elements the most.
Slip Tops
​Our latest slip top variation was created as a demo garment while instructing our client Anita. I had initially taught her how to draft a simple slip top for her daughter, using the original slip top pattern. Anita wanted to take this slip top even further by introducing darts, gathers, convertible straps, and an empire seam. So voila, a gathered slip top was born!
Ombre Gathered Slip Top
Ombre Gathered Slip Top

Project Specs

  • 0.8 M of ombre silk (self/main) and 0.4 M of grey silk charmeuse (lining).
  • Stitched on a Juki DDL 8300 industrial machine.​
  • Strap and lining finishings hand sewn.
  • 5 Hours of construction from the cutting to final sittich.
  • 1.5 Hours of drafting, including adjustments after fitting.

Creating a Toile (Fit Sample)

Before cutting into our intended fabric (ombre silk), we created a toile (fit sample) to test out the gathers, bust dart, convertible straps, and strap width and length. All of which were changes from the original slip top. 

Creating a toile is extremely important in the design process. It helps a designer test out their concept, pattern draft, and correct fit requirements. Not only that, but it also assists the designer in understanding the best sequence of construction. Typically a toile is made out of muslin fabric. But when the final intended fabric for use does not move like muslin, you can choose to make your toile out of a similar but cheaper fabric than your final fabric. We used silk charmeuse. Not exactly cheaper, but it is what we had on hand, not to mention it best resembled the drape of our final ombre fabric. Silk charmeuse fabric is from Atex Designer Fabrics.
Pink Gathered Slip Top
Pink Gathered Slip Top
After fitting the toile, the following adjustments were made to the pattern.
  • ¼” strap is too skinny, widen to ⅜.” The original slip top had a ½” width, which was just a tad too thick.
  • Shorten strap length so convertible slider sits in a more comfortable position. Mid back instead of upper shoulder.
  • Instead of self lining the bodice area, we are only lining the upper bodice of the ombre top with grey silk charmeuse.
Gathered Slip Top
Gathered Slip Top

Ombre Fabric

In 2017, I picked up ombre textured silk fabric from Nagato Fabrics in Nippori Textile Town in Tokyo, Japan. It was the last of the bolt with only 2 m left... so I bought it all! The fabric is 25” wide, which is more narrow than typical fabrics. I was informed that this type of fabric is meant for kimonos, hence the narrow width. Nagato Fabrics is one of my favorite textile shops in Japan as they have three shops within one block of each other to experience. For more information on Nagato Fabrics, check out our blog post: Latest Design: Couture Striped Jacket.
Vancouver Sewing Lessons
Ombre Gathered Slip Top
The upper bodice is lined with a grey silk charmeuse fabric, purchased from Atex Designer Fabrics. 
Ombre Gathered Slip Top
Sheila Wong Fashion Design Studio

Gathering Techniques

Our slip top might look simple in nature, but as per usual, there are a ton of elements hidden within this design. While our top features French side seams, a topstitched tailored hem, an empire waist, front bust darts, convertible straps, and a lined upper bodice, I want to focus our attention on our designs' most visual element— gathers.
Ombre Gathered Slip Top
Ombre Gathered Slip Top
Gathering Sewing Tips:
  • Use a stronger/thicker thread when applying the gathering stitches. I like to use cotton thread. It is less likely to break while pulling.
  • Sew in two rows of stitching that flank the permanent stitch line. For example, if your seam allowance for your garment is ½”, place your gathering stitches at ⅜” and at  ⅝”. This will provide you with more control over the direction of each gather as they stay perpendicular coming out of the seam.
  • If you are gathering a garment along a seam that runs around the front and back, separate the gathering stitches into the front and back. If the thread breaks, there is less to take out.
  • Always apply your gathering stitches in contrasting thread colors, so you can easily see while pulling and while removing them after the permanent stitch line is applied.
  • Avoid using too large of a stitch length for the gathering stitches. I find that the larger the stitch length, the less control I have over the gathers. My go-to stitch length is between 3 -3.5mm. Be sure to test on a scrap of fabric so you can see the ease of pulling the stitch.
Gathered Slip Top
Gathered Slip Top

Final Thoughts

Creating variations of a basic silhouette is the best way to explore a pattern to its fullest. There are other elements we could potentially add to future versions of this slip top such as pleats, round neckline, color blocking, double straps (2 per side instead of 1), cross over straps, pintucks, lace overlays, and the list goes on! What design elements would you like to see on the next variation of this silhouette? Let us know in the comments below. 
Slip Tops
Want to watch this slip top transform and progress? Sign up for our Insider Newsletter to keep up to date with all our latest designs.

Happy Sewing!
​Designed, photographed, and written by Sheila Wong Studios.
0 Comments



Leave a Reply.


    Archives

    November 2022
    October 2021
    September 2021
    July 2021
    May 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    June 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    June 2017
    April 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    July 2016
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    January 2015
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013


    RSS Feed

Contact

​Phone
1.604.685.8997
​
Location
Suite 122 (2nd floor) 1020 Mainland Street
Vancouver BC Canada
Open Tuesday - Saturday, 10am-6pm. By appointment only. Call or email for availability. Studio gets booked up at least 3-4 weeks in advance.
​
IMPORTANT NOTICE FOR NEW CLIENTS

​We are taking on new clients for a few course offerings being offered as semi-private lessons. Go check out our course offerings to see which ones.
Starting Jan 2023, we are also taking on a limited amount of new clients. Please reach out to book an initial consultation meeting.
Thank you for your continued support!
About
our communicable disease guidelines
JOIN OUR TEAM
Copyright © 2023 Sheila Wong Fashion Design Studio Ltd. All rights reserved.
Picture
  • Home
  • Book Sewing Lessons
  • Set Course Offerings
  • Rates
  • Blog
  • Contact