| || |
Creating a Toile (Fit Sample)
Creating a toile is extremely important in the design process. It helps a designer test out their concept, pattern draft, and correct fit requirements. Not only that, but it also assists the designer in understanding the best sequence of construction. Typically a toile is made out of muslin fabric. But when the final intended fabric for use does not move like muslin, you can choose to make your toile out of a similar but cheaper fabric than your final fabric. We used silk charmeuse. Not exactly cheaper, but it is what we had on hand, not to mention it best resembled the drape of our final ombre fabric. Silk charmeuse fabric is from Atex Designer Fabrics.
- ¼” strap is too skinny, widen to ⅜.” The original slip top had a ½” width, which was just a tad too thick.
- Shorten strap length so convertible slider sits in a more comfortable position. Mid back instead of upper shoulder.
- Instead of self lining the bodice area, we are only lining the upper bodice of the ombre top with grey silk charmeuse.
- Use a stronger/thicker thread when applying the gathering stitches. I like to use cotton thread. It is less likely to break while pulling.
- Sew in two rows of stitching that flank the permanent stitch line. For example, if your seam allowance for your garment is ½”, place your gathering stitches at ⅜” and at ⅝”. This will provide you with more control over the direction of each gather as they stay perpendicular coming out of the seam.
- If you are gathering a garment along a seam that runs around the front and back, separate the gathering stitches into the front and back. If the thread breaks, there is less to take out.
- Always apply your gathering stitches in contrasting thread colors, so you can easily see while pulling and while removing them after the permanent stitch line is applied.
- Avoid using too large of a stitch length for the gathering stitches. I find that the larger the stitch length, the less control I have over the gathers. My go-to stitch length is between 3 -3.5mm. Be sure to test on a scrap of fabric so you can see the ease of pulling the stitch.
Designed, photographed, and written by Sheila Wong Studios.