For those of you new to the term reverse pattern drafting, it is the technique of taking an already made garment and extracting out the 2D shapes to create a paper pattern. It sounds quite simplistic but the basics of pattern drafting and understanding how fabric can be manipulated is still very important.
Our latest design was reverse drafted from a black dress I borrowed from a dear friend Alisa. Typically black is my go-to color of choice, but my heart gravitated towards floral right now.
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I liked the simplicity of this sleeveless dress so much, so we made 2 versions! Which one would you wear? The day time or nightshade floral version. As you can see, I was really feeling the floral and fauna!
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Sewing Tip: Thread Color
When picking out matching thread for an all over print with mixed colors, it is always best to match with the background color. If there is no distinct background color, medium grey is a magical color. Medium grey even works well as the constant thread color in your serger that goes with multiple fabric colors when you are too lazy to change up the color.
If you have been hesitant to design with prints, begin with designing something simple like a sleeveless top or pairing the print with a solid fabric as a panel in garment.
Two in One Necklines
In Seam Pockets
There are two different sequence of construction steps in installing an in-seam pocket. A modern version vs a more traditional version. Below I describe both. Which one do you use? I am in the traditional camp.
A modern version involves sewing a pocket bag to the front side seam and another pocket bag to the back side seam, essentially creating ears. In one full go, you stitch the front to back together along the side seam, pivoting at the top of the pocket bag, then around the bag, pivoting once again once you hit the side seam, then head down to the hem to finish. Anyone can achieve an in-seam pocket with this version.
A traditional version of installing an inseam pocket rather has the two pocket bags stitched to the front panel opening with a series of intricate steps that involve pivoting, edge stitching, pressing, clipping and stay- stitching. At the very end, the side seam is sewn in one straight seam, gently pulling away the pocket opening and carefully hitting the top and bottom opening of the pocket. This version involves more patience and technical skill, but in the end it sits so beautifully and all the raw edges inside can be cleaned up neatly unlike the modern version.
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios.