Latest Design: Couture 70's Vintage Dress

Six months ago, we busted out this beautiful vintage Oscar de la Renta pattern by Vogue. We just just tied the knot on the last bit of top stitching and couldn't wait to share! This pattern is from 1973.

Project Specs

• 75 + hours of hand sewing over the span of 6 months
• 0.3 meters of ivory silk charmeuse (lining)

• 3 meters of ivory linen (self)​
• 2 spools of ivory cotton thread

Design Elements

Thread Marking

This is the stuff nobody gets to see! Temporary yet oh so necessary stitches. The orange threads are thread marking stitches. They are inserted in prior to cutting out fabric and frame each pattern piece. They are also used to display any notches. These threads get removed after each seam receives their permanent stitches or at the very end of full garment construction.

​The blue threads are basting threads that hold multiple layers of fabric together prior to putting in permanent stitches. So helpful as they allow you to not use any pins.

Silk Charmeuse Lining

We’re flipping up these flap pockets to show you the silk charmeuse lining. Some of the finest construction details are hidden away. This dress has patch pockets with flaps on the bodice and slash pockets on the skirt. Both lined with silk charmeuse.

Front Snap Closures

Snaps VS buttons?! What do you prefer in your sewing projects? The pattern asked for buttons but we opted for snaps to create a clean exterior placket.

Inverted Box Pleat

Creating body in a garment can be achieved in several ways. Gathers, pleats, tucks,  godets, panels and more. For this vintage design, a mix of mild gathers along the waist and a center front inverted box pleat provided body in the skirt section. An inverted box pleat is like a secret box pleat. Only visible when wearer is in motion or opens it up.

Final Design

Done and done! For the purpose of instructing, we have left all the thread markings and basting stitches in the final garment.  Fun Fact: We have several garments in studio like this to aid with instructing our clients.

If you would like to learn more about couture hand sewing techniques feel free to contact the studio. It is easy enough to inject small bits of couture techniques in a project or go full out on a fully hand stitched garment. You decide!

Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios.