How to Sew a Cuffed Hem

Rolled up pants are everywhere right now. For a more permanent and tailored version, create your own cuffed hem.

In this tutorial, learn step by step  how to draft a pattern to a cuffed hem and how to sew it. 

Step 1

Prior to cutting out fabric, you need to take into consideration that you are making a cuffed hem during the pattern drafting stage. Here is a diagram on the measurements required to create a cuffed hem. 

First, you will need to decide the height of your cuff. In this example, I have used 1.5" as the final height of the cuff. This is average height for a pant/short cuffed hem.

The Finished Garment Hem line is the final length of your complete garment. We must add length to create a cuffed hem.  I want my cuff height to be 1.5" thus I add 1.5" twice, as the cuff needs to be folded up to create a front and back.

You will also need to include a seam allowance for the raw edge to be hidden away inside the garment. I added a 4/8" seam allowance. I suggest finishing off the raw edge accordingly to your fabric choice and garment. In this example, I have applied a serged edge.

Step 2

Now onto the sewing part of a cuffed hem. A hem is completed at the very end of the construction process. Sew the side seams first.

Step 3

Take the time now to finish off the raw edge at the bottom. I have applied a serged edge.

Step 4

On the right side of your garment, mark the above lines as per Step 1. Mark all the way around the hem to ensure a balanced cuff.

Step 5

Press hem in at Top of Cuff line. Please refer to Step 1 to see lines.

Step 6

To keep bottom of hem clean and upright, sew a line 1/4" away from raw edge (serged edge in this example).

Step 7

Press cuff up at Bottom of Cuff line. Once pressed, the hem will start to resemble a cuffed hem.

Step 8

To finish, at the seams, tack the body of the garment to the cuff. Tacking is a hand-sewing technique used to keep two areas of a garment attached/secure without any visible stitching on the exterior of the garment. Each tack is approximately 3-5 stitches is one small area, just enough to hold the two areas tight. 

Please note for the purpose of instruction and clear photos, I have used a contrasting thread color. You will want to use a matching thread color.

Happy Sewing!
Written & Created by Sheila Wong