Elevate the quality of a garment with fabric covered snaps. Often seen on pricier apparel, these snaps only take a few minutes to sew. But, can change the look dramatically. Before I start, here are a few tips to help in the process. I have found that light weight fabric works the best as it lets the snaps, actually 'snap'. When choosing the size of snaps, consider where in the garment the snaps will be placed. I suggest not using a size any smaller than 18mm, or you will have a great deal of difficulty covering the snap in fabric. MaterialsStep 1Cut out a fabric circle 1/4" larger than snap. Step 2Hand sew a running stitch approximately 1/8" away from circle raw edge. Step 3Completing one snap at a time, place right side of snap facing down. Gently pull the end of the running stitch with loose threads until fabric circle is sitting snug around snap. For extra security, feel free to run a few stitches through the back layers. Tie a knot once you are satisfied. Step 4Repeat step 3 to the corresponding snap. Covered snaps should look like the bottom set shown in the photo below. All four snaps displayed are right sides facing up, once the fabric is covered its difficult to see what the snap looks like. So I have placed 'naked' snaps above to help you. Step 5Snap your snaps together. This process will break the fabric on the male side of the snap. If you find you are getting alot of frays, simply run a small amount of clear nail polish along the raw edge. Just a heads up, when you are trying to snap the set together, the first time will be difficult due to the extra fabric in the way. Once the fabric breaks away, your snaps will snap away normally. You can now proceed with hand sewing snaps onto your garment.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios
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Here is my version of a top Winter 2014 trend- a long waistcoat. A waistcoat can be defined as a sleeveless garment covering the top half of a body with a center front opening. My take on this Winter 2014 trend is futuristic and void of any unnecessary bits like closures, top-stitching, darts, etc. PS- Waistcoat is just a formal way of referring to a vest. Project Specs
FabricI fell madly in love with this fabric the moment I touched it! It is so extremely soft and warm to the touch. I initially thought of a cropped vest, but one year later it evolved to a long waistcoat. I found this fabric at Fabricana in Richmond in the Interior Delights section which is upstairs. Interior Delights is actually a separate company from Fabricana. Did you know that? Don't be afraid to explore home décor fabrics. Some of my favorite fabric finds are from the home décor section. I purchased the light grey and dark grey color-ways. I initially used a small portion of the dark grey on a dress for the bodice. I had just enough left-over to create this waistcoat. Draping/ Pattern DraftingFor those of you who know me, I am not a fan of illustration. I tend to already have the design in my mind and go straight into draping what I in vision. I wanted to keep this garment as fitted, sleek and clean as possible. Meaning clean lines, no darts and no top stitching. I was able to remove the front dart by creating a style line coming from neckline to side seam. I mirrored the same idea on the back, to give the waistcoat a balanced look. Construction DetailsBeing able to bring together two different colors in identical fabrics in one garment is what I think really adds to the appeal of this waistcoat. It gives it that futuristic vibe that a lot of my designs already posses. Sewing the front dark grey piece to the front light grey piece along the style line was a tad tricky. I had to ensure I found the exact pivot point so the front would lay smooth over the bust. I just chalked out the pivot area on the wrong side of the garment prior to sewing. It was important that the side seams lined up perfectly too. It would be obvious with the contrasting fabric if the style lines did not match up. Pinning this point was essential prior to sewing the side seam. Inverted Box PleatAn inverted box pleat was not in my original design, but I felt the garment needed more dark grey too add to the overall interest. A 2" panel was sewn into the center back seam using a French seam finish. Learn How to Sew a French Seam HERE. I wanted the pleat to be a subtle addition to the back, so I sewed down approximately 8 inches from neckline down the back. Bound Side Seam FinishI do not believe in leaving raw edges exposed in a garment. I like to take the time to neaten any exposed edges. I applied hand made binding strips to the side seams to create a bound seam finish. Learn How to Sew Bound Seam Finish HERE. LiningI particularly enjoy garments that are not lined, but only if the seams are neatly finished. I needed to either add a facing to neckline, armhole and center front or just line the garment entirely. I opted for lining the bodice area only. That way I would not add to the weight of complete garment, especially going into spring weather. The hem of the lining was slip-stitched closed and the neckline was edge-stitched to secure lining to the interior of the garment. Hidden to the eye, I applied tack-stitches to the sides seams and center back at pleat to hold the lining in place. Mitered CornerKeeping with the clean line aesthetic I wanted for this design, I finished the center front corners at the hem with a mitered corner. Learn How to Sew a Mitered Corner HERE. Hand SewingTop-stitching was not allowed for this garment. To complete the garment, blind slip-stitching was sewn along the center front opening and hem. Completed WaistcoatThis is how I styled my waistcoat. Kept it simple with a Club Monaco blush pink tank, Rachel Roy denim and white Cole Haan leather shoes. Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Rolled up pants are everywhere right now. For a more permanent and tailored version, create your own cuffed hem. In this tutorial, learn step by step how to draft a pattern to a cuffed hem and how to sew it. Step 1Prior to cutting out fabric, you need to take into consideration that you are making a cuffed hem during the pattern drafting stage. Here is a diagram on the measurements required to create a cuffed hem. First, you will need to decide the height of your cuff. In this example, I have used 1.5" as the final height of the cuff. This is average height for a pant/short cuffed hem. The Finished Garment Hem line is the final length of your complete garment. We must add length to create a cuffed hem. I want my cuff height to be 1.5" thus I add 1.5" twice, as the cuff needs to be folded up to create a front and back. You will also need to include a seam allowance for the raw edge to be hidden away inside the garment. I added a 4/8" seam allowance. I suggest finishing off the raw edge accordingly to your fabric choice and garment. In this example, I have applied a serged edge. Step 2Now onto the sewing part of a cuffed hem. A hem is completed at the very end of the construction process. Sew the side seams first. Step 3Take the time now to finish off the raw edge at the bottom. I have applied a serged edge. Step 4On the right side of your garment, mark the above lines as per Step 1. Mark all the way around the hem to ensure a balanced cuff. Step 5Press hem in at Top of Cuff line. Please refer to Step 1 to see lines. Step 6To keep bottom of hem clean and upright, sew a line 1/4" away from raw edge (serged edge in this example). Step 7Press cuff up at Bottom of Cuff line. Once pressed, the hem will start to resemble a cuffed hem. Step 8To finish, at the seams, tack the body of the garment to the cuff. Tacking is a hand-sewing technique used to keep two areas of a garment attached/secure without any visible stitching on the exterior of the garment. Each tack is approximately 3-5 stitches is one small area, just enough to hold the two areas tight. Completed Cuffed HemPlease note for the purpose of instruction and clear photos, I have used a contrasting thread color. You will want to use a matching thread color.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios I have been waiting for the perfect fabric to design a skater skirt. So the moment I found a thick boiled wool fabric, it was time. A skater skirt is a high waisted skirt that has dramatic flare. The term 'skater skirt' originates from what a female figure skater would wear. When a figure skater did their spins, their skirt would flow around them beautifully, hence the term skater skirt. I wanted to design my version of the skater skirt with as much flare as possible. Check out highlights from my design process below. Project Specs
FabricI used a thick black boiled wool fabric. It is fantastic for the winter, but looking back it was not fun hand sewing the waistband due to the thick seam allowances it was creating. Regardless, it was worth it! I purchased the fabric from Fabricland on Marine Drive. Boiling wool dates back to the Middle Ages. It is the process of taking already weaved or knitted fibers, which makes fabric, then boiling and agitating it in hot water. This process shrinks the fabric resulting in a really tight and dense fabric. This create the heavy weight you feel. I am fairly sure my skater skirt weighs at least 2 pounds. Pattern DraftingI wanted as much flare as possible in this skirt with out having to add any gathers or pleats. So, I drafting a complete circle with enough space in the middle to fit my waist. A waistband was also drafted (sorry not shown) that fit right around my natural waist. Seams are only on the side seams. Ideally, it would have been nice to only have a center back seam to decrease the weight with the boiled wool. Another term for this style of skirt is a circle skirt. Any guesses why it would be called this? Just have a look at the pattern! Construction DetailsThis skirt was almost fully hand sewn with the exception of the side seams, the zipper and the initial attachment of the waistband to the skirt. Normally hook and eyes are used to accompany a zipper closure, but I opted for snaps as I find the larger snaps much more secure and discreet. The majority of my time was spent preparing and hand sewing the hem. The length of the entire hem all the way around is 145 inches, so you can only imagine how long that would take to hand sew. I applied a blind slip stitch to finish the hem. A helpful characteristic of boiled wool is that when pressed or steamed the fabric will mold to the shape you require. This made pressing the hem into place really easy with out any excess fabric in the hem seam allowance. I thought I would include an inside view of the skirt for you. How cool does it look laying flat? Makes me want to twirl around to show off the flare. Final DesignLearn how to make your own skater skirt by booking yourself in for a sewing lesson with me. This is how I wore my skater skirt. Now its time to twirl! Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Excess fabric can be worked into different design elements such as darts, pleats and gathers. Gathering fabric is a simple way to remove excess fabric, and it adds to the style of a garment. Gathered skirts are easily in most of our wardrobes. Gathers are typically sewn into another pattern piece. These can include waistbands, cuffs, collars and bodices. This tutorial will show you how to create gathers in one pattern piece to be attached onto another piece that does not require gathering. I will use a cuff example here. Step 1Consider your seam allowance first. My seam allowance is 3/8". Begin with sewing a basting stitch approximately 1/16-1/8" away from your final sew line, in the seam allowance area. Several sources have you sew your basting stitch in the middle of your seam allowance, but I find the closer you can get to your sew line, with out actually being on your sew line the better your gathers will sit in the end. A basting stitch is used to temporarily hold fabric together and is sewn using a wider stitch length. I use a 4mm stitch length. A basting stitch is also used to gather fabric. Do not back stitch and leave at least 3-4" tails of thread to pull later. If the piece you are applying gathers to is really long, I would break it up into 4 equal sections with their own tails. You will thank me when you start pulling threads and one breaks mid way! Step 2Before you start pulling the threads, I suggest marking the middle points on the gathering piece and the cuff (or whatever pattern piece you are attaching your gathering onto). Again, if you are applying gathering to a long area, separate into quarters to manage better. This will ensure the gathering is balanced when sewn into your garment. Right sides of fabric facing each other, pin marked middle points together. Step 3Starting on one end of your basting stitch, pull at one thread to begin creating gathers. Move gathers towards the middle. Pull until the gathered piece becomes the same length as the garment seam you are sewing it to. In this case, I will pull until my gathered sleeve becomes the same length as my cuff. Repeat thread pulling to create gathers on the other end. Pin layers together. As you pin, try to re-position each gather to be straight. If gathers are turning diagonal it will show in your finished garment. Step 4Switch you stitch length back to 2.5mm, sew at 3/8" seam allowance. Your sew line should be just to the left of your basting stitch. When finished, your gathering should look like below. Step 5Press the non gathered side of the seam flat, using the edge of your iron. Gathering is complete! You can now continue sewing your garment. Happy Sewing!
Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios A self bound seam finish is a variation on a bound seam finish. But it does not require you to prepare an extra piece of bias/straight tape to enclose the raw edges of your seam allowance. Its best used when you want to bind both seam allowances together and for light to medium weight fabrics. Also works better on straight to slight curved seams only. For a step by step sewing tutorial on a bound seam finish click HERE. Step 1If you are familiar with a regular bound seam finish, you know that either bias or straight tape is used to bind the raw edges of the seam allowance. In a self bound seam finish we need to allow for extra seam allowance to self bind. A 3/4" seam allowance is required to have a 1/4" finished self bound seam. Sew at a 3/4" seam allowance. Step 2Trim one of your seam allowances down to 1/4". Step 3Press the raw edges of the longer seam allowance in to line up with the raw edge of the shorter one. Step 4Press the folded edge in to meet up with the original sew line. Leave a 1/16" or smaller space in between the edge and the sew line to ensure the seam lays flat. Step 5Edge stitch down your pressed seam allowance as shown in photo above. Edge stitch is approximately 1/6" away from the folded edge. Step 6On the right side, press seam allowance to one side. Completed SeamHappy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Winter has technically arrived according to the calendar, even if snow decided to come earlier. As each new season approaches, I customarily peruse through designer collections to see what key fashion trends or pieces I need in my closet. I have had a bit of down time in between holiday feasts this season to organize what I feel are the top 3 key fashion pieces you can sew. And I am not promising anything, but I will try to sew these 3 fashion trends for you in the next few months. Basic Dress Made in Opulent FabricsThe title should be descriptive enough for you. I call it a basic dress as to describe the pattern drafting is rather basic in this one. Pattern pieces would consist of a basic set in sleeve, a front dress (probably cut on fold) and a back dress piece that probably has a zipper down the center back as closure. What makes this dress so coveted would be the opulent fabric choice. So I guess I am on the hunt for the perfect fabric! Minimalist CapesCapes come and go each season, but I am really loving the silhouette of these Winter 2014 capes. Its fairly boxy with clean lines. I have always found past capes with flare are a bit much and just remind me of Robin hood. Notice the hand/arm openings are rather streamlined. It is as if they do not exist or you could even wear the cape without having to use the openings. Made out of wool, this would be a perfect layering piece in Vancouver. Long Vest CoatBeen really feeling the longer top silhouette over pants recently. It has a very worldly feel about it. In our colder climate, you can see variations of this vest in the zip off sleeves option of a winter coat. Personally I don't want a coat with zip off sleeves. I feel the zipper teeth may snag a scarf. I will try to find a dark grey or indigo color to make this long vest coat. This will be perfect to wear closer to the end of winter. If you are going to be making this one, don't let the hem fall past your knees. It may shorten you. I know it is the last thing I want...being short and all. Happy Sewing!
Written by Sheila Wong Studios Speak to anyone who sews, and they will let you know that all the steps leading up to sewing take longer than the actual sewing itself. These steps can include pattern drafting, fabric preparation, pattern placement, pinning, cutting and marking. In this post I will focus on two steps in which you can easily improve your skills. These include pinning and cutting fabric. Other areas will be covered in future posts. PinningPinning well will ensure the fabric cut out, looks like the pattern. Here is how I approach pin placement. Cutting FabricLets use the table to our advantage. Keep the bottom blade of your fabric shears always sitting on the table. This will give each cut a stable feel. The only time I will ever lift up the fabric shears from the table, is if I am cutting out a small pattern the size of my hand. If you are right handed cut with the pattern to the right of your shears and the fabric to the left. Reverse if you are left handed. You will notice a cleaner cut that resembles your pattern. WOOT! Hope you have enjoyed these few pinning and cutting techniques that will make your a better sewer. If you have any questions feel free to leave them below.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Corners in sewing are tricky, they can look clean and professional if you put the effort into them. Here is a step by step sewing tutorial on how to sew a mitered corner. A mitered corner can be sewn in a variety of areas in a garment. Commonly seen at the hem intersecting with the center front opening of a garment or perhaps at the hem at the back opening vent. Step 1On the right side of your garment, mark your hem seam allowance or your fold in line. It is OK if the two are not the exact same measurement. Most likely your hem is larger in measurement. Please refer to your pattern for hem seam allowance. In this example, I am using 1". Step 2Press your marked hem seam allowance back, one at a time. Once pressed, you will get an intersecting point or what will become the corner of the garment. Step 3Right sides of fabric facing each other, line up pressed lines as shown below. Pin pressed lines in place, and mark where the intersecting point is exactly. Step 4With an L ruler or anything that will give you a right angle, line up 90 degree corner to intersecting point as shown below and mark sew line. Step 5Sew marked line at 1.5 stitch length. Ensure you sew all the way to the intersection point exactly. Step 6Trim seam allowance down to 1/8". Step 7Flip corner inside-out and poke corner until it looks as close to a right angle as possible. If it is looking bulky, go back and trim off more seam allowance from step 6. To create a super clean look to easy fray fabric, finish the raw edges prior to completing any of these steps. An easy way to finish the raw edges would be to serge. Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios My latest design is a structured crop top made from a Cotton blend fabric. The inspiration really originated from the fabric, as most of my designs do. I wanted to maintain clean straight lines. With only one curve in the pattern at the neckline, as required. I wanted to give you an inside view into my design process, so I have documented with photos along the way. Materials cost approximately $15 and 0.9M of fabric was used. The total process took a total of 9.5 hours, over the span of 2 weeks, from conceptualization to completion of construction. Concept & InspirationI was shopping in the interior fabrics section at Fabricana, when this print caught my eye. Here is a lesson for you, do not ignore the interior fabrics just because it was originally designed to be used for home decor projects. Some of my favorite designs are made from "interior" fabrics. At the time of purchase, I had no clue what I would design from it yet, but knew it had to be structured due to the stiffness of the fabric. Almost a year later....here we are. DrapingThis crop top called for draping as I wanted the raglan sleeve seams to hit certain spots and I wanted a side panel in the design. You will notice I left ample seam allowance to create my first muslin. Fit Sample (Muslin) #1Based on my draped pieces prior, I sewed them together and turned in the hems to get a real feel to what the top would look like. I had to make a few adjustments by marking the muslin with chalk. I dropped the armhole by 1/2" to give room for movement. Did not want to walk like a robot. I also re-curved the hem to make up for the bust lifting up the hem. Pattern DraftingFrom the draping and fitting, I created 2D paper pattern pieces reflecting the fabric pieces. Fit Sample (Muslin) #2A second muslin was created from the paper patterns to make sure the adjustments sat correctly. I decided to try this on since I will be wearing the final design. As you can tell from the photo, the neckline was a tad tight, so I marked that appropriately. Final Pattern DraftingOnce I was happy with the neckline correction, I finalized all the pattern pieces with seam allowances, grain-lines, titles and notches. Cut out FabricPaper pattern pieces down, pin and cut. Prepping for the garment sewing stage, I had to show you what this top looks like all lined up. Garment ConstructionThe sleeves are a combination of a raglan and cap sleeve. I wanted to stay away from an inset sleeve to create the sleeve hem flare. The most challenging part sewing this top would be where all the seams collide under the armhole at the corners of the side panel. Eight seam allowances converging at one point, four from the exterior and four from the lining. In this situation it is important to mark the exact point that all should converge, so you don't sew over. Patience was key here. This top is fully lined with the same fabric as the exterior. This means I have to make two tops first, then bring them together. Because of all the style lines and seams, it is fairly important that I pressed open each seam along the way prior to bringing the exterior and lining tops together. A fully lined garment means no raw or exposed fabric edges are visible. A small opening is left un-sewn at the hem to flip garment right side out. Hand sew a slip stitch to close up opening. After a good final press, I hand sewed a hook and eye to the top center back. I wanted to maintain an airy feel to the design but not have it fall off, so only one hook and eye was required.
For those curious and not familiar with the design process, all the step leading up to construction usually take longer than the actual garment sewing. In this case, it was approximately 30% sewing to 70% pattern creation and prep. Wondering what I will wear this top with? Check out my Instagram feed. Happy Sewing! Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios |
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