This tutorial is inspired by my client Connie who made a traditional stocking for her grand daughter. We created beautiful felt poinsettia's to be hand sewn onto the front of a stocking. Now, I will admit I had no clue what a poinsettia was, but they are big during the holiday season. I was so inspired, that I started to think where else could these fabric poinsettia's be placed. Thought of decoration around the house, tree ornaments, brooches and even extra décor on gifts. Materials
Step 1Create a pattern or download free patterns online. I found mine HERE on First Palette. Cut out your paper pattern. Step 2Pin and cut out your poinsettia felt layers. Step 3Position 3 layers of felt to create a flower, and pin in place. Step 4Thread up a hand sewing needle. Prior to sewing beads, secure the 3 layers of your flower with a few stitches going top to bottom in the center 3-4 times. Sew as many beads as you like, keeping beads centered in the poinsettia. Finish and tie a knot in the back. Step 5Now you can decide how you will use your poinsettia. Hand sew a ribbon to the back if you are making it into a decoration. I'm making my poinsettia into a brooch. First hand sew the brooch back to the back of flower. Next, cut out a small piece of felt and hand sew felt down around the circle. Happy Sewing!
Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios
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A bound seam finish is not often seen in mass produced garments. Its a beautiful way to finish off raw edges inside of a garment. It is typically used to finish unlined garments in which the fabric has a high fray rate. Follow this step by step tutorial on how to apply a bound seam finish. Step 1Right sides facing sew your seam at 1/2" seam allowance and press seam open. Please note for this tutorial I will be using a 1/2" seam allowance, please check your pattern prior to sewing to see what the allocated seam allowance is. You have the choice to bind the seam allowances together, or bind them separately. Consider the thickness of your fabric, where the seam is located in the garment, and what style you desire. For this tutorial, I will demonstrate how to sew them separately. Step 2Now its time to create the binding tape. For a straight seam, cut a strip of fabric on grain or on the crossgrain as per sketch below. If you are applying a bound finish to a curved seam, cut your strip on bias. If you are unfamiliar with the terms: grain-line, crossgrain and bias please click HERE to learn. Its best to use light to medium weight 100% cotton for the binding tape. Step 3This is a 3 part pressing process to create the binding tape. Follow photos from left to right. Once the 3 part pressing steps are complete, you will have 4 sections measuring 3/8" each. This fits the original 1/2" seam allowance from step 1. Step 4Pick one side of your seam allowance, right sides facing pin the binding tape to seam allowance. Sew binding tape to seam allowance on first fold line. Step 5Wrap binding tape around seam allowance to the back, lay flat and edge stitch (approx 1/16") tape down. This sew line should capture the back of the binding tape too. Click on my video link below to see the TOP and BOTTOM views. YoutubeHere is a clip I took on what the Bound Seam Finish should look like from the top and bottom view of the seam allowance. Happy Sewing!
Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios My latest sewing project is a holiday party skirt. What makes it holiday? Definitely the fabulous fabric. What makes it a party skirt? Every skirt is worthy of a good party in my eyes. The following are some of the design elements and techniques used to construct this holiday party skirt. Design ElementsCentered ZipperInserted in the center back seam to avoid bulk, a zipper is the easiest skirt closure out there. Hook & EyesHook & eyes are a fantastic closure choice on top of a zipper to ensure the opening lies flat. I used two sets as my waistband is 2 inches in height. These are fully hand sewn. Fully Enclosed WaistbandTop of waistband was cut on fold of fabric, then all seam allowances pressed in and slip stitched shut to avoid any exposed raw edges. If you are not adding any lining to the skirt, this is the best technique to keep all your mess (threads, fraying fabric, etc.) hidden. Hand GatheringPrior to attaching waistband onto skirt, a running stitch in the longest stitch length possible was sewn in the seam allowance area. By hand, I pulled the ends of the threads until an even gather that matched the length of the waistband was achieved. My tip is to take your time so you don't snap the threads! Bound Seam FinishMy fabric frayed just looking at it, so the best way to hide ultra fray rate fabric is to apply a bound finish to the seams. In this case, I also bound the zipper tape to the seam allowance for a clean finish. PS-I will be releasing a blog post on how to create your own binding and how to sew a bound seam finish soon! Slip-Stitch (Blind Hem)One of my favorite ways to finish a hem is a blind hem in a slip-stitch finish. Click HERE for my video tutorial. Final DesignI've sewn this entire skirt on my Juki industrial sewing machine and a hand sewing needle. Want to learn how to create your own holiday party skirt? BOOK time in the studio now with me.
Happy Sewing! Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Loose cords drive me nuts, especially headphone cords at the bottom of my bag. Practical and simple to make, here is your step by step tutorial on how to sew a headphone cord organizer. Materials & SuppliesStep 1Create a paper pattern using dimensions below. You can round off the corners too. Step 2It is best not to pin leather as permanent little holes can be left behind. I suggest taping the boarder of the pattern to the leather. Then you can cut out leather. Step 3Hand sew a shank style button onto the back side of leather. Center the button 1/2"-3/4" away from edge. Step 4On the other side of leather tab, cut a slit down the center starting 1/2" away from the edge. Button width + shank height = Slit length Button up your leather tab, you are done! Final DesignYou can use your leather organizer for keeping your measuring tape in tact too. Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios OK, first off I want to apologize for lying to you in the title, there is absolutely no sewing involved in this tutorial. This is all about how to make your own hair ties. I am posting this tutorial because it is simple enough for anyone to do and because it does not cost very much either! Materials
Step 1Step 2Step 3Give-AwayWant to win a package of handmade hair ties? Here's how:Winner will be announced on Oct 30 2013 at 3pm. These will make fantastic gifts and/or colourful arm candy.
Happy Sewing! Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Heading into Fall season, sleeves are... well everywhere! There is more than just your basic short and long sleeves out there. In this post I will go over some pretty amazing sleeves with equally amazing names. Now the question is, which sleeve will you slide your arm into this Fall? Cap SleeveJust a smidge more fabric than a sleeveless garment. A cap sleeve literally caps your shoulder. Most cap sleeves are made by extending out the shoulder seam. Byblos Spring 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Gigot SleeveThis sleeve is one of my favourite sleeves to say out loud. Try is with me, 2 syllables- "jgie zhego"! Sounds like you are calling for a dog. Another name for this sleeve is leg o'mutton, equally as fabulous to say out loud. The easiest way to spot this sleeve is to picture a chicken leg. Extremely full at the top and fitted down to the wrist. Used in the 1800's, the idea was that if your gigot fullness was extreme, it would make your waist appear smaller. Vivienne Westwood 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Bishop SleeveA long sleeve with fullness at the bottom created by gathers or pleats and narrow at the top. Fullness is controlled by a cuff at the wrist. Gucci Spring 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Dolman SleeveThis sleeve reminds me of bat-wings. Personally I dont think this is very flattering on most figures, as it takes away from a women's natural curves. But leave it to Valentino to make a dolman sleeve flattering by cinching in the waist- good job! Important elements for a dolman sleeve include a fitted sleeve from wrist up to elbow region then excess amount of fabric dropped from armhole area. Valentino 2012 retrieved from NY Mag. Bell SleeveVisually just picture your arms are bells, with some bells being larger than others- this is a bell sleeve. There are variations of this sleeve where the bell can flare out at any part of an arm. Typically you will see a seam connecting the top of the sleeve to the bell part, this allows a designer to achieve the flare. Bell sleeves can add drama to any outfit, but I dont recommend dining in bell sleeves. Gareth Pugh 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Puff SleeveGathers at the sleeve cap and sleeve hem make up a perfect puff sleeve. Extremely feminine and youthful sleeve. I think the last time I wore this sleeve, I was 12. If you have broad shoulders, this sleeve only makes you look wider. Chanel Resort 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. At times, certain sleeves defy conventional labels and fall under their own unique category. Here are two of my favourite one of kind sleeves from Spring 2014 shows. Happy Sewing!
Written by Sheila Wong Studios There are a few variations of a French seam: regular, narrow and faux. This tutorial is for a regular French seam. Watch out for the other 2 in the next few weeks. A French seam fully encases any raw edges and is fantastic for fabric that has high fray rate. It is best used for straight or slightly curved seams. Any seams with too much of a curve will be a nightmare to sew and also not lay flat against the garment. Step 1Wrong sides of fabric facing, line up your seam, pin, and sew at 1/4" seam allowance. Please take note that a total of 1/2" seam allowance has been allocated for this pattern. Step 2Trim seam allowance down to 1/8" seam allowance. Step 3Press seam flat to look like a book spine. Right sides of fabric should be facing each other. Step 4Right sides of fabric facing, sew at 1/4" seam allowance from book spine edge. This step fully encloses your raw edge. Step 5Pressing from the right side of your garment, press all seam allowances to one side. Pressing from the right side will allow the iron to naturally open your seam flat. Check out my Pressing Tips here. Finished SeamVoilà! You are done a regular French seam. From the right side of the garment, it should look like a regular sewn seam. From the wrong side of the garment, it should look like clean encased seam allowance. Remember to check back for future tutorials on how to sew a Narrow and a Faux French seam.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Part 2 of a 3 part series in sewing French seams, say hello to the narrow French seam. Please click HERE if you would like to view Part 1: How to Sew a Regular French Seam. The construction steps are very similar to the regular French seam except for certain seam allowances have changed to accommodate a narrow completed seam. A narrow French seam should be used for thin or sheer fabrics with medium to high fray rates. A narrow finished seam allowance will allow the seam to almost disappear in the garment. Remember, French seams are best used on straight to slightly curve seams. They will not lay flat for seams that are extremely curved. Step 1Wrong sides of fabric facing, line up your seam, pin, and sew at 3/8" seam allowance. Please take note that a total of 1/2" seam allowance has been allocated for this pattern. Step 2Trim seam allowance down to 1/16" seam allowance. Step 3Press seam flat to look like a book spine. Right sides of fabric should be facing each other. Step 4Right sides of fabric facing, sew at 1/8" seam allowance from book spine edge. This step fully encloses your raw edge. Step 5Pressing from the right side of your garment, press all seam allowances to one side. Pressing from the right side will allow the iron to naturally open your seam flat. Check out my Pressing Tips here. Your finished seam allowance inside your garment should look like this photo with a seam allowance of 1/8". Check back for Part 3: How to Sew a Faux French Seam.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Welcome to part 3 of how to sew a French Seam. This tutorial will show you how to sew a Faux French Seam, also known as a False French Seam. Click HERE if you would like to start with the Regular French Seam and HERE for the Narrow French Seam. Why a Faux French Seam? The end product looks the same as a Regular French Seam, but the process is completely different and involves both machine and hand sewing. You would use this technique when working with extremely delicate fabrics like fine lace, which have no place near a machine. Step 1Right sides of the fabric facing either hand sew or machine sew at 1/2" seam allowance. I have used black thread so you can see it in photos. Ideally you should be using matching thread. 1/2" total seam allowance as been allocated for this example. Regular seam allowance ranges from 3/8-5/8". Step 2Separately, press seam allowances in half, folding raw edge in. Line up raw edge beside sewn line in Step 1. See video below for detailed instructions. Step 3Slip Stitch closed your seam allowance on the fold. See video below for detailed instructions. Step 4Pressing from the right side of your garment, press all seam allowances to one side. Pressing from the right side will allow the iron to naturally open your seam flat. Check out my Pressing Tips here. Happy Sewing!
Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios |
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