This one is for the boys! All men should know the top three types of lapels commonly found of blazers and jackets. If not, then continue reading. Lets begin with Intro to Lapels 101. There are three major sections you need to know. Starting from the top, highlighted in blue this is the collar. The collar changes very little from suit to suit. Marked in red is the actual lapel area, this shape changes depending on the style of lapel. The break point is marked in yellow. This is the point where the lapel begins to fold or break to create the lapel from the center front. NotchedUsed in women's and menswear, a notched lapel is commonly used on single breasted jackets. I have heard several people describe a notched lapel as looking like a step from the collar to lapel. Sure that works, but I think the easiest way to point out a notched lapel is to imagine the shape of a bird with their mouth open. Burberry Prorsum Spring 2014 retrieved from NY Mag. PeakedPeaked lapels are found commonly on more formal and double breasted blazers/jackets. Can also be called a pointed lapel. Who am I kidding? I have to include the ladies too. How beautiful is this extremely peaked lapel by Alexander McQueen? Alexander McQueen Resort 2013 retrieved from Style.com ShawlThis version brings together the collar and lapel in one continuous piece. Can be referred to as a shawl collar or shawl lapel. A shawl collar brings out a more casual feel. Its origin is on a smoking jacket. Hugh Hefner popularized this style of collar/lapel as he was typically seen lounging around in a smoking jacket. Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2009 retrieved from LA Times. Happy Sewing!
Written by Sheila Wong Studios
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Essential for Fall and Winter, pants keep us warm. But they can also be an extension of our personality through colour, fabric choice and silhouettes created when worn. Get your learn on here with pants you may not see everyday. Paper Bag Waisted PantsHow fun are these pants?! The waist is tied like a paper bag, hence the name, paper bag waist. Naturally they sit at the smallest part of the waist. When unbelted and laid flat, the pants look like a rectangle from top to bottom. I recently inherited a vintage pair of Ralph Lauren paper bag waisted pants. Check out my Instagram as I wear them this Thanksgiving Monday. Pant example retrieved on Google Images. Pegged PantsThink volume at the hips then narrows by the time it hits the hem. Perfect pants to install a side seam pocket. Pegged pants are easily mistaken for jodhpur style pants. But, jodhpurs volume at the hips is so much more exaggerated. I always think of pegged as the city version of the jodhpur. Blumarine Spring 2014 RTW retrieved from NY Mag. Bell Bottom PantsIf you grew up in the 90's, you definitely owned a pair of bell bottoms. I admittedly owned several pairs. Remember the brand Silver? I loved wearing my Silver bell bottoms to school. Characteristics that make up a true bell bottom is fitted at the waist, hips and down to the knees then flares out dramatically to the hem. Gareth Pugh 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Cargo PantsCargo pants where made for utility purposes. The wearer needed to hold alot of items easily and keep them organized. must have several pockets and made from a durable material. This version from Zara is a modern cargo pant. Do not think you can fit more than a slim phone and a lipstick in these. But who needs to hold things in your pockets when we have big purses right? Zara 2013 retrieved from Zara Online. Harem PantsAbsolutely a gypsy feel to these pants. Traditional harem pants are super full then gathered at the hem with an elastic or cuff. Newer versions are not as full but follow the elastic cuff at the hem. Pant example retrieved on Google Images. Palazzo PantsPalazzo pants are fitted at the waist and hips then flares out dramatically to the hem, they are much wider than wide leg pants. Often times can be mistaken for a long flared maxi skirt in certain angles. Great for showing off a small waist, but be prepared to make some attention while walking with all the extra fabric! Antiprima 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Happy Sewing!
Written by Sheila Wong Studios Heading into Fall season, sleeves are... well everywhere! There is more than just your basic short and long sleeves out there. In this post I will go over some pretty amazing sleeves with equally amazing names. Now the question is, which sleeve will you slide your arm into this Fall? Cap SleeveJust a smidge more fabric than a sleeveless garment. A cap sleeve literally caps your shoulder. Most cap sleeves are made by extending out the shoulder seam. Byblos Spring 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Gigot SleeveThis sleeve is one of my favourite sleeves to say out loud. Try is with me, 2 syllables- "jgie zhego"! Sounds like you are calling for a dog. Another name for this sleeve is leg o'mutton, equally as fabulous to say out loud. The easiest way to spot this sleeve is to picture a chicken leg. Extremely full at the top and fitted down to the wrist. Used in the 1800's, the idea was that if your gigot fullness was extreme, it would make your waist appear smaller. Vivienne Westwood 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Bishop SleeveA long sleeve with fullness at the bottom created by gathers or pleats and narrow at the top. Fullness is controlled by a cuff at the wrist. Gucci Spring 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Dolman SleeveThis sleeve reminds me of bat-wings. Personally I dont think this is very flattering on most figures, as it takes away from a women's natural curves. But leave it to Valentino to make a dolman sleeve flattering by cinching in the waist- good job! Important elements for a dolman sleeve include a fitted sleeve from wrist up to elbow region then excess amount of fabric dropped from armhole area. Valentino 2012 retrieved from NY Mag. Bell SleeveVisually just picture your arms are bells, with some bells being larger than others- this is a bell sleeve. There are variations of this sleeve where the bell can flare out at any part of an arm. Typically you will see a seam connecting the top of the sleeve to the bell part, this allows a designer to achieve the flare. Bell sleeves can add drama to any outfit, but I dont recommend dining in bell sleeves. Gareth Pugh 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Puff SleeveGathers at the sleeve cap and sleeve hem make up a perfect puff sleeve. Extremely feminine and youthful sleeve. I think the last time I wore this sleeve, I was 12. If you have broad shoulders, this sleeve only makes you look wider. Chanel Resort 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. At times, certain sleeves defy conventional labels and fall under their own unique category. Here are two of my favourite one of kind sleeves from Spring 2014 shows. Happy Sewing!
Written by Sheila Wong Studios |
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