I have been waiting for the perfect fabric to design a skater skirt. So the moment I found a thick boiled wool fabric, it was time. A skater skirt is a high waisted skirt that has dramatic flare. The term 'skater skirt' originates from what a female figure skater would wear. When a figure skater did their spins, their skirt would flow around them beautifully, hence the term skater skirt. I wanted to design my version of the skater skirt with as much flare as possible. Check out highlights from my design process below. Project Specs
FabricI used a thick black boiled wool fabric. It is fantastic for the winter, but looking back it was not fun hand sewing the waistband due to the thick seam allowances it was creating. Regardless, it was worth it! I purchased the fabric from Fabricland on Marine Drive. Boiling wool dates back to the Middle Ages. It is the process of taking already weaved or knitted fibers, which makes fabric, then boiling and agitating it in hot water. This process shrinks the fabric resulting in a really tight and dense fabric. This create the heavy weight you feel. I am fairly sure my skater skirt weighs at least 2 pounds. Pattern DraftingI wanted as much flare as possible in this skirt with out having to add any gathers or pleats. So, I drafting a complete circle with enough space in the middle to fit my waist. A waistband was also drafted (sorry not shown) that fit right around my natural waist. Seams are only on the side seams. Ideally, it would have been nice to only have a center back seam to decrease the weight with the boiled wool. Another term for this style of skirt is a circle skirt. Any guesses why it would be called this? Just have a look at the pattern! Construction DetailsThis skirt was almost fully hand sewn with the exception of the side seams, the zipper and the initial attachment of the waistband to the skirt. Normally hook and eyes are used to accompany a zipper closure, but I opted for snaps as I find the larger snaps much more secure and discreet. The majority of my time was spent preparing and hand sewing the hem. The length of the entire hem all the way around is 145 inches, so you can only imagine how long that would take to hand sew. I applied a blind slip stitch to finish the hem. A helpful characteristic of boiled wool is that when pressed or steamed the fabric will mold to the shape you require. This made pressing the hem into place really easy with out any excess fabric in the hem seam allowance. I thought I would include an inside view of the skirt for you. How cool does it look laying flat? Makes me want to twirl around to show off the flare. Final DesignLearn how to make your own skater skirt by booking yourself in for a sewing lesson with me. This is how I wore my skater skirt. Now its time to twirl! Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios
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A self bound seam finish is a variation on a bound seam finish. But it does not require you to prepare an extra piece of bias/straight tape to enclose the raw edges of your seam allowance. Its best used when you want to bind both seam allowances together and for light to medium weight fabrics. Also works better on straight to slight curved seams only. For a step by step sewing tutorial on a bound seam finish click HERE. Step 1If you are familiar with a regular bound seam finish, you know that either bias or straight tape is used to bind the raw edges of the seam allowance. In a self bound seam finish we need to allow for extra seam allowance to self bind. A 3/4" seam allowance is required to have a 1/4" finished self bound seam. Sew at a 3/4" seam allowance. Step 2Trim one of your seam allowances down to 1/4". Step 3Press the raw edges of the longer seam allowance in to line up with the raw edge of the shorter one. Step 4Press the folded edge in to meet up with the original sew line. Leave a 1/16" or smaller space in between the edge and the sew line to ensure the seam lays flat. Step 5Edge stitch down your pressed seam allowance as shown in photo above. Edge stitch is approximately 1/6" away from the folded edge. Step 6On the right side, press seam allowance to one side. Completed SeamHappy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios A bound seam finish is not often seen in mass produced garments. Its a beautiful way to finish off raw edges inside of a garment. It is typically used to finish unlined garments in which the fabric has a high fray rate. Follow this step by step tutorial on how to apply a bound seam finish. Step 1Right sides facing sew your seam at 1/2" seam allowance and press seam open. Please note for this tutorial I will be using a 1/2" seam allowance, please check your pattern prior to sewing to see what the allocated seam allowance is. You have the choice to bind the seam allowances together, or bind them separately. Consider the thickness of your fabric, where the seam is located in the garment, and what style you desire. For this tutorial, I will demonstrate how to sew them separately. Step 2Now its time to create the binding tape. For a straight seam, cut a strip of fabric on grain or on the crossgrain as per sketch below. If you are applying a bound finish to a curved seam, cut your strip on bias. If you are unfamiliar with the terms: grain-line, crossgrain and bias please click HERE to learn. Its best to use light to medium weight 100% cotton for the binding tape. Step 3This is a 3 part pressing process to create the binding tape. Follow photos from left to right. Once the 3 part pressing steps are complete, you will have 4 sections measuring 3/8" each. This fits the original 1/2" seam allowance from step 1. Step 4Pick one side of your seam allowance, right sides facing pin the binding tape to seam allowance. Sew binding tape to seam allowance on first fold line. Step 5Wrap binding tape around seam allowance to the back, lay flat and edge stitch (approx 1/16") tape down. This sew line should capture the back of the binding tape too. Click on my video link below to see the TOP and BOTTOM views. YoutubeHere is a clip I took on what the Bound Seam Finish should look like from the top and bottom view of the seam allowance. Happy Sewing!
Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios There are a few variations of a French seam: regular, narrow and faux. This tutorial is for a regular French seam. Watch out for the other 2 in the next few weeks. A French seam fully encases any raw edges and is fantastic for fabric that has high fray rate. It is best used for straight or slightly curved seams. Any seams with too much of a curve will be a nightmare to sew and also not lay flat against the garment. Step 1Wrong sides of fabric facing, line up your seam, pin, and sew at 1/4" seam allowance. Please take note that a total of 1/2" seam allowance has been allocated for this pattern. Step 2Trim seam allowance down to 1/8" seam allowance. Step 3Press seam flat to look like a book spine. Right sides of fabric should be facing each other. Step 4Right sides of fabric facing, sew at 1/4" seam allowance from book spine edge. This step fully encloses your raw edge. Step 5Pressing from the right side of your garment, press all seam allowances to one side. Pressing from the right side will allow the iron to naturally open your seam flat. Check out my Pressing Tips here. Finished SeamVoilà! You are done a regular French seam. From the right side of the garment, it should look like a regular sewn seam. From the wrong side of the garment, it should look like clean encased seam allowance. Remember to check back for future tutorials on how to sew a Narrow and a Faux French seam.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Part 2 of a 3 part series in sewing French seams, say hello to the narrow French seam. Please click HERE if you would like to view Part 1: How to Sew a Regular French Seam. The construction steps are very similar to the regular French seam except for certain seam allowances have changed to accommodate a narrow completed seam. A narrow French seam should be used for thin or sheer fabrics with medium to high fray rates. A narrow finished seam allowance will allow the seam to almost disappear in the garment. Remember, French seams are best used on straight to slightly curve seams. They will not lay flat for seams that are extremely curved. Step 1Wrong sides of fabric facing, line up your seam, pin, and sew at 3/8" seam allowance. Please take note that a total of 1/2" seam allowance has been allocated for this pattern. Step 2Trim seam allowance down to 1/16" seam allowance. Step 3Press seam flat to look like a book spine. Right sides of fabric should be facing each other. Step 4Right sides of fabric facing, sew at 1/8" seam allowance from book spine edge. This step fully encloses your raw edge. Step 5Pressing from the right side of your garment, press all seam allowances to one side. Pressing from the right side will allow the iron to naturally open your seam flat. Check out my Pressing Tips here. Your finished seam allowance inside your garment should look like this photo with a seam allowance of 1/8". Check back for Part 3: How to Sew a Faux French Seam.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios Welcome to part 3 of how to sew a French Seam. This tutorial will show you how to sew a Faux French Seam, also known as a False French Seam. Click HERE if you would like to start with the Regular French Seam and HERE for the Narrow French Seam. Why a Faux French Seam? The end product looks the same as a Regular French Seam, but the process is completely different and involves both machine and hand sewing. You would use this technique when working with extremely delicate fabrics like fine lace, which have no place near a machine. Step 1Right sides of the fabric facing either hand sew or machine sew at 1/2" seam allowance. I have used black thread so you can see it in photos. Ideally you should be using matching thread. 1/2" total seam allowance as been allocated for this example. Regular seam allowance ranges from 3/8-5/8". Step 2Separately, press seam allowances in half, folding raw edge in. Line up raw edge beside sewn line in Step 1. See video below for detailed instructions. Step 3Slip Stitch closed your seam allowance on the fold. See video below for detailed instructions. Step 4Pressing from the right side of your garment, press all seam allowances to one side. Pressing from the right side will allow the iron to naturally open your seam flat. Check out my Pressing Tips here. Happy Sewing!
Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios In the midst of bridal season one of my good friends and artist Andrew Briggs asked me to sew a few pocket squares for his upcoming wedding. Naturally, I said yes! Enjoy this three step tutorial. Materials
Step 1Cut out a square piece of fabric in the dimensions 16 inches x 16 inches. Total 1 inch seam allowance all around is already included. One edge needs to run along the lengthwise grain and the other on the crosswise grain. This will make sure your square stays like a square and does not warp. Step 2With a 1 inch seam allowance in our pattern, fold and press each edge twice at 1/2 inch each time. Step 3With matching thread sew folded edges down at an equal distance from pocket square border in a complete square. Happy Sewing!
Designed, photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios I always tell my clients that taking the time to press a garment along the ways of construction is essential. Why? Because it sets your designs apart in a more professional manner. I guarantee if you incorporate the following basic pressing techniques to your next design, you will not be disappointed! Before we get started...did you know that I have gone through 8 irons in the last 3 years. I press almost every day! Basic Pressing TipsEver wonder why you iron feels so heavy? Well the natural weight of the iron is just the right amount to press a garment. So please refrain from pushing down like hulk in the thoughts that it will assist in flattening a seam or a wrinkle. Also, no need to wiggle the iron while pressing. Steady heat in one continuous motion is plenty. In my experience, I have found not all irons have the same heat levels. It is extremely important to test with a scrap of your intended fabric which level of heat to set your iron to. With a scrap, place your iron at a setting you think might be right and leave your iron on for 10 seconds. If there was any burning or shine created, your setting is too high. Pressing SeamsWhen pressing a seam that needs the seam allowances to be fully open, press from the wrong side of garment. This ensures a flat laying seam. When pressing a seam that needs the seam allowances to be sitting to one side, press from the right side of garment. This lets you press the seam flat. Iron MaintenanceAlways be aware of the water level in your iron. Do not let it get too low or else you will not receive a clean press. Also the steam function that assistants in giving that flat appearance will not work. This one is really simple, yet I am still guilty of it. Turn off your iron when not in use. It extends the life of your iron. Keep an eye out for future blog posts on pressing difficult fabrics and attaching fusible interfacing with ease.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios |
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