Rolled up pants are everywhere right now. For a more permanent and tailored version, create your own cuffed hem. In this tutorial, learn step by step how to draft a pattern to a cuffed hem and how to sew it. Step 1Prior to cutting out fabric, you need to take into consideration that you are making a cuffed hem during the pattern drafting stage. Here is a diagram on the measurements required to create a cuffed hem. First, you will need to decide the height of your cuff. In this example, I have used 1.5" as the final height of the cuff. This is average height for a pant/short cuffed hem. The Finished Garment Hem line is the final length of your complete garment. We must add length to create a cuffed hem. I want my cuff height to be 1.5" thus I add 1.5" twice, as the cuff needs to be folded up to create a front and back. You will also need to include a seam allowance for the raw edge to be hidden away inside the garment. I added a 4/8" seam allowance. I suggest finishing off the raw edge accordingly to your fabric choice and garment. In this example, I have applied a serged edge. Step 2Now onto the sewing part of a cuffed hem. A hem is completed at the very end of the construction process. Sew the side seams first. Step 3Take the time now to finish off the raw edge at the bottom. I have applied a serged edge. Step 4On the right side of your garment, mark the above lines as per Step 1. Mark all the way around the hem to ensure a balanced cuff. Step 5Press hem in at Top of Cuff line. Please refer to Step 1 to see lines. Step 6To keep bottom of hem clean and upright, sew a line 1/4" away from raw edge (serged edge in this example). Step 7Press cuff up at Bottom of Cuff line. Once pressed, the hem will start to resemble a cuffed hem. Step 8To finish, at the seams, tack the body of the garment to the cuff. Tacking is a hand-sewing technique used to keep two areas of a garment attached/secure without any visible stitching on the exterior of the garment. Each tack is approximately 3-5 stitches is one small area, just enough to hold the two areas tight. Completed Cuffed HemPlease note for the purpose of instruction and clear photos, I have used a contrasting thread color. You will want to use a matching thread color.
Happy Sewing! Photographed and written by Sheila Wong Studios
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Essential for Fall and Winter, pants keep us warm. But they can also be an extension of our personality through colour, fabric choice and silhouettes created when worn. Get your learn on here with pants you may not see everyday. Paper Bag Waisted PantsHow fun are these pants?! The waist is tied like a paper bag, hence the name, paper bag waist. Naturally they sit at the smallest part of the waist. When unbelted and laid flat, the pants look like a rectangle from top to bottom. I recently inherited a vintage pair of Ralph Lauren paper bag waisted pants. Check out my Instagram as I wear them this Thanksgiving Monday. Pant example retrieved on Google Images. Pegged PantsThink volume at the hips then narrows by the time it hits the hem. Perfect pants to install a side seam pocket. Pegged pants are easily mistaken for jodhpur style pants. But, jodhpurs volume at the hips is so much more exaggerated. I always think of pegged as the city version of the jodhpur. Blumarine Spring 2014 RTW retrieved from NY Mag. Bell Bottom PantsIf you grew up in the 90's, you definitely owned a pair of bell bottoms. I admittedly owned several pairs. Remember the brand Silver? I loved wearing my Silver bell bottoms to school. Characteristics that make up a true bell bottom is fitted at the waist, hips and down to the knees then flares out dramatically to the hem. Gareth Pugh 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Cargo PantsCargo pants where made for utility purposes. The wearer needed to hold alot of items easily and keep them organized. must have several pockets and made from a durable material. This version from Zara is a modern cargo pant. Do not think you can fit more than a slim phone and a lipstick in these. But who needs to hold things in your pockets when we have big purses right? Zara 2013 retrieved from Zara Online. Harem PantsAbsolutely a gypsy feel to these pants. Traditional harem pants are super full then gathered at the hem with an elastic or cuff. Newer versions are not as full but follow the elastic cuff at the hem. Pant example retrieved on Google Images. Palazzo PantsPalazzo pants are fitted at the waist and hips then flares out dramatically to the hem, they are much wider than wide leg pants. Often times can be mistaken for a long flared maxi skirt in certain angles. Great for showing off a small waist, but be prepared to make some attention while walking with all the extra fabric! Antiprima 2013 retrieved from NY Mag. Happy Sewing!
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